QuickUse Calculator

Loan Calculator

Monthly payment, total interest and amortization schedule for personal, auto, or consumer loans.

Portrait of Ryan Clarke, software engineer and founder of QuickUse CalculatorBy Software Engineer & Site Founder
Reviewed by on .Sources verified against 6 official references.
Based on 4 official sources↓
$

Monthly payment

US$664.29

Total paid

US$23,914.30

Total interest

US$3,914.30

APR (Reg Z, with fees)

12.00%

Monthly rate used: 1.0000%

First payment breakdown

To principal
US$464.29 (70%)
To interest
US$200.00 (30%)

Amortization schedule

Showing the full schedule. Interest share decreases as balance drops.

MonthPaymentPrincipalInterestBalance
1US$664.29US$464.29US$200.00US$19,535.71
2US$664.29US$468.93US$195.36US$19,066.78
3US$664.29US$473.62US$190.67US$18,593.17
4US$664.29US$478.35US$185.93US$18,114.81
5US$664.29US$483.14US$181.15US$17,631.67
6US$664.29US$487.97US$176.32US$17,143.70
7US$664.29US$492.85US$171.44US$16,650.86
8US$664.29US$497.78US$166.51US$16,153.08
9US$664.29US$502.76US$161.53US$15,650.32
10US$664.29US$507.78US$156.50US$15,142.54
11US$664.29US$512.86US$151.43US$14,629.68
12US$664.29US$517.99US$146.30US$14,111.69
Β·Β·Β· 12 months hidden Β·Β·Β·
25US$664.29US$589.52US$74.77US$6,887.07
26US$664.29US$595.42US$68.87US$6,291.66
27US$664.29US$601.37US$62.92US$5,690.29
28US$664.29US$607.38US$56.90US$5,082.90
29US$664.29US$613.46US$50.83US$4,469.45
30US$664.29US$619.59US$44.69US$3,849.86
31US$664.29US$625.79US$38.50US$3,224.07
32US$664.29US$632.05US$32.24US$2,592.02
33US$664.29US$638.37US$25.92US$1,953.66
34US$664.29US$644.75US$19.54US$1,308.91
35US$664.29US$651.20US$13.09US$657.71
36US$664.29US$657.71US$6.58US$0.00

Related calculators

Every fixed-rate loan β€” auto, personal, mortgage β€” follows the same arithmetic. A lender hands you a principal today; you repay it in monthly installments that cover interest on the unpaid balance plus a chunk of the principal. The interest rate, term, and any fees together determine the monthly payment and the total cost. Skip any of those three inputs and you'll either misread the offer or overpay.

This calculator goes beyond the monthly payment. It shows the full amortization schedule, the true APR (what Reg Z requires lenders disclose, including origination + closing + PMI), the savings you would get from extra payments, and a side-by-side of what different terms would cost. The point is to make the real cost visible β€” not just the number that fits into your monthly cash flow.

The math uses 2026 conventions: standard amortization (Price / French system), APR per Truth in Lending Act / Reg Z (annual rate = 12 Γ— periodic rate, simple), and Newton-Raphson for the IRR solver behind the APR-with-fees calculation. Worked examples below were generated by running the calculator itself β€” the numbers in the prose are the same numbers you will see in the widget.

How the payment is calculated

Standard amortization (Price / French system). PMT = P Γ— r / (1 βˆ’ (1 + r)^βˆ’n). Principal P, monthly rate r, term n months. Every monthly payment is the same dollar amount, but the split between interest and principal shifts month by month: early on most of the payment is interest, by the end most goes to principal. The graph that shows this β€” interest decreasing, principal growing β€” is the most underrated tool in personal finance.

APR vs interest rate. The interest rate (or 'note rate') is what the lender charges on the unpaid balance. The APR is the all-in rate including origination fees, closing costs, and PMI β€” required disclosure under Truth in Lending Act / Reg Z (15 USC Β§ 1601). When two lenders quote the same interest rate but different fees, the APRs will diverge β€” and the APR is the honest comparison. This calculator computes APR by solving the IRR (Newton-Raphson) of the actual cash flow, then annualizing per Reg Z (simple Γ— 12).

Term length is a slider, not a binary choice. Going from 36 months to 60 months drops the monthly payment but inflates total interest. The calculator's term comparison table makes this trade-off explicit β€” same principal, same rate, four terms, side by side. Most borrowers default to the longest term they're offered (because it has the smallest payment), without realizing the interest cost of that choice.

Extra payments compound. Every dollar of extra principal you pay early reduces the balance that future interest accrues on. A small recurring extra ($100/month, $200/month) takes years off a 30-year mortgage. The extra-payment scenario shows months saved + interest saved precisely.

What APR doesn't include. Title insurance, escrow, taxes, home inspection, optional discount points (sometimes), and any costs the borrower pays at the lender's discretion. Reg Z lets these stay outside APR β€” so APR is the floor of true cost, not the ceiling. Always read the Loan Estimate (TRID) for the full picture.

Loan math β€” Price amortization + APR

PMT = P Γ— r / (1 βˆ’ (1 + r)^βˆ’n) Β· r = APR / 12 (Reg Z simple convention) APR-with-fees: solve IRR for r where (P βˆ’ fees) = Ξ£ (PMT + monthly_fees) / (1 + r)^t

P
Principal (amount borrowed)
r
Monthly rate (APR Γ· 12, simple)
n
Term in months
PMT
Constant monthly payment (Price)
APR
Annualized cost per Reg Z, including origination + closing + PMI; > rate when fees > 0

Practical examples

Personal loan $20,000 at 12% APR, 36 months, $500 origination β€” APR 13.77%

Setup: Standard prime-credit personal loan. Annual rate 12% β†’ monthly rate 1% (Reg Z simple convention). $500 origination fee deducted upfront.

**Monthly payment:** PMT = $20,000 Γ— 0.01 / (1 βˆ’ 1.01^βˆ’36) = **$664.29**. **Total payments:** $664.29 Γ— 36 = $23,914.30. With the $500 origination, total cash out = $24,414.30. **Total interest:** $3,914.30 (interest on the $20k principal alone, no fees). **APR (with fees):** 13.77% AA β€” note rate 12% + origination spreading 1.77pp over the term.

Takeaway: The $500 origination doesn't sound like much against a $20k principal, but it adds 1.77 percentage points to the effective APR β€” the equivalent of paying 13.77% interest with no fees. When comparing lenders, two offers at "12% rate" can have very different APRs depending on fee structure. Always pull the APR.

Auto loan $35,000 at 6.5% APR, 60 months β€” straightforward case

Setup: Super-prime credit auto loan, no origination fee, 60-month term. Annual 6.5% β†’ monthly 0.5417%.

**Monthly payment:** PMT = $35,000 Γ— 0.005417 / (1 βˆ’ 1.005417^βˆ’60) = **$684.82**. **Total payments:** $41,088.91. **Total interest:** $6,088.91 (~17.4% of principal). **APR:** 6.50% (no fees β†’ APR = rate).

Takeaway: When fees = 0, APR equals the note rate. This case is the cleanest comparison: you pay back $41k for $35k borrowed, $6k of which is interest spread across 5 years. The same loan at a 4.66% rate (super-prime new-auto Bankrate avg, abr/2026) would drop the monthly payment to $657 and save you $1,635 in interest. The credit-score difference between super-prime and prime is real money.

Mortgage $300,000 at 7%, 360 months, $5,000 closing + $200/mo PMI β€” APR 8.15%

Setup: Conventional 30-year fixed at the Bankrate avg 7%. $5k closing costs + $200/month PMI (typical for <20% down). Monthly P&I from the formula; PMI is a separate add-on.

**Principal & interest:** $300,000 Γ— 0.005833 / (1 βˆ’ 1.005833^βˆ’360) = **$1,995.91**. **Plus PMI $200/month**. **Total monthly cash out:** $2,195.91. **Total payments over 30 years:** $795,526.69 (including $5k upfront closing). **Total interest:** $418,526.69 β€” more than the principal itself. **APR:** 8.15% β€” 1.15 percentage points above the note rate, driven by closing + PMI over 360 months.

Takeaway: 30-year mortgages are interest-machines. You will pay back $795k for $300k borrowed β€” a 165% ratio, of which $77k goes to fees (closing + 360 months Γ— $200 PMI). The $200/month PMI alone is $72k over the loan life β€” drop it as soon as you reach 20% equity (typically at month 84-100, depending on your equity build path; PMI removal is automatic at 22% equity per HPA 1998). Refinancing PMI off when home values rise can pay back faster than rate-driven refinances.

Same personal loan + $200/month extra principal β€” saves $993 and 9 months

Setup: Personal loan from example #1 ($20,000 at 12% APR, 36 months) but the borrower adds $200/month against principal starting from month 1.

**Without extra:** payoff at month 36, total interest $3,914.30. **With $200/month extra:** payoff at **month 27**, total interest **$2,920.74**. **Months saved: 9. Interest saved: $993.56.**

Takeaway: Adding $200/month to a $664 payment doesn't feel dramatic ($864/month total), but it kills 9 months off the term and saves nearly $1k in interest. The extra goes 100% to principal (after the regular interest is paid), so it shrinks the balance that future interest accrues on. The smaller the term and the higher the rate, the bigger the savings as a percentage. On a 30-year mortgage at 7%, the same logic β€” see the next example.

Mortgage $300k at 7% + $500/month extra β€” saves $191,305 and 12.5 years

Setup: Same $300k 30-year mortgage at 7% from example #3, but the borrower commits $500/month extra against principal from month 1. No PMI in this scenario for clarity.

**Without extra (P&I only):** 360 months, total interest $418,526.69. **With $500/month extra:** payoff at **month 209** (~17.4 years), total interest **$227,221.63**. **Months saved: 151. Interest saved: $191,305.06.**

Takeaway: The classic case for accelerated mortgage payoff. $500/month is $6,000/year β€” or about a quarter of a typical homeowner's discretionary annual savings. Putting that toward principal cuts 12.5 years and $191k in interest. The same $6k/year invested in an S&P index fund at 7% historical real return would compound to ~$540k over 17 years β€” vs $191k of guaranteed interest savings. The math depends on your investment-vs-debt-payoff philosophy; both numbers are large.

How to choose loan term and avoid common mistakes

  • Compare APRs, not interest rates. Two lenders offering "5.99%" can have wildly different all-in costs once origination, closing, and PMI are factored in. The APR is the apples-to-apples number β€” Truth in Lending Act / Reg Z requires lenders to disclose it precisely so you can compare offers without doing IRR math yourself.
  • Don't default to the longest term offered. Lenders push 72-month and 84-month auto loans because the lower monthly payment fits more buyers, but the interest cost balloons. The term comparison table in this calculator shows the trade-off explicitly β€” you will usually find that going from 60 to 72 months saves $40-80/month and costs $1,500-3,000 extra in interest.
  • Run the extra-payment scenario before signing. Even $50/month extra on a 5-year personal loan saves real money. The math is convex: small extras early in the loan have outsized effects because they reduce the balance that future interest accrues on. The calculator's extra-payment block tells you the exact months saved and interest saved.
  • Origination fees can dominate small loans. A $500 origination on a $5,000 loan is 10% upfront. Your effective APR can run 5+ percentage points above the quoted rate. For loans under $5k with high fees, a 0% promotional credit card or a credit-union loan often costs less.
  • Mortgages: don't ignore PMI. $200/month PMI for 5+ years is $12k+ β€” significant on top of interest. Track your equity carefully; PMI removal is automatic at 22% equity (Homeowners Protection Act 1998) but you can request removal at 20% equity if you have a good payment history. Refinancing into a non-PMI loan once you have 20% equity can be a fast win even if rates have not dropped.
  • Watch for prepayment penalties. Some loans (rare on personal loans, occasional on mortgages and auto loans) charge a fee if you pay off early. Always read the prepayment terms before assuming the extra-payment savings shown here are achievable β€” if there is a 2% penalty, the math shifts.
  • Refinance is the override switch. If interest rates drop materially after you take out a loan, refinancing can capture the savings β€” but watch the refi closing costs and your remaining term. Refinancing a 30-year mortgage to another 30-year resets your amortization clock; the same monthly savings could be achieved by recasting (some lenders offer this) without restarting the term.

Limitations

Adjustable-rate mortgages (ARMs). The calculator assumes a fixed rate for the entire term. ARMs adjust at predetermined intervals (typically 5/1, 7/1) β€” first 5 or 7 years fixed, then annual adjustments tied to an index (SOFR, MTA). To model an ARM, run the calc twice: once at the initial rate for the fixed period, once at the projected adjusted rate for the remaining term.

Interest-only loans. Some loans (rare for prime borrowers post-2008) charge interest only for the first N years, with the principal paid as a balloon or amortized over the remaining term. The calc assumes constant amortization from month 1.

Negative-amortization loans. Some specialty products (option ARMs, payment-option mortgages) allow payments below the interest-only minimum, growing the balance over time. Not modeled.

Variable-rate consumer loans. Some personal loans (especially from credit unions) tie to prime rate + spread. The calc assumes the rate you input holds for the full term β€” if the rate changes, the actual payment changes.

Co-signed and joint loans. The calc treats the loan as borrower-only. If you have a co-signer or joint borrower, both names are on the debt and credit is shared.

Foreign currency loans. Outside the calculator's scope. Currency-denominated loans (e.g., USD loans for non-US residents) carry FX risk that has to be modeled separately.

Tax-deductible interest. Mortgage interest is deductible up to certain caps (MID, $750k for loans after Dec 2017). Student loan interest deductible up to $2,500/year (with income phase-out). The calc shows pre-tax interest cost β€” your after-tax cost is lower if you can deduct it.

Frequently asked questions

What's the difference between APR and interest rate?β–Ύ

The interest rate (or note rate) is what the lender charges on the unpaid balance month by month. APR includes the rate plus origination fees, closing costs, and PMI β€” annualized per Reg Z. APR is always β‰₯ rate; the gap is the fee load. When comparing offers, use APR.

Why is the total interest sometimes more than the principal?β–Ύ

On long-term loans (30-year mortgages especially), interest at the typical 6-8% range adds up to more than the principal because each month's interest accrues on the still-large balance. A 30-year, 7% mortgage on $300k pays $418k in interest over the loan life β€” 39% more than the principal. The fix: shorter term or extra principal payments.

Should I take the longest term to minimize the monthly payment?β–Ύ

Only if you cannot afford a shorter term. Otherwise, shorter terms save substantial interest. A $20k personal loan at 12%: 36 months β†’ $3,914 interest; 48 months β†’ $5,289; 60 months β†’ $6,693. The 5-year option costs $2,779 more than the 3-year for a $185 lower monthly payment.

Do extra payments go to principal automatically?β–Ύ

On most modern loans, yes β€” extra payments above the scheduled amount go directly to principal and reduce future interest. Some older loans or auto loans have weird quirks; double-check with the lender that extra payments aren't held in 'suspense' or applied to future scheduled payments. Always specify 'apply to principal' in writing if there is any ambiguity.

Can I refinance to skip extra payments?β–Ύ

Yes, but watch the closing costs. Refinancing usually costs 2-5% of the loan amount. Run the math: new payment βˆ’ old payment Γ— months you would hold = total savings. If closing costs > total savings, it is a wash. The right time to refinance: rates dropped 1+ percentage point AND you will hold the loan β‰₯ 3 years.

What is amortization?β–Ύ

Amortization is the process of paying down a loan via fixed payments that include both interest and principal. Each month: interest portion = balance Γ— rate; principal portion = payment βˆ’ interest; new balance = old balance βˆ’ principal. Early on, most of the payment is interest because the balance is large. Late in the term, most goes to principal.

Does PMI go away when I have 20% equity?β–Ύ

Per the Homeowners Protection Act of 1998, mortgage servicers must automatically cancel PMI at 22% equity (78% LTV) based on the original amortization schedule. You can request earlier cancellation at 20% equity if you have a clean payment record. Some loans (FHA) require PMI for the loan life regardless of equity β€” check your specific loan terms.

What is a "discount point"?β–Ύ

A discount point is an upfront fee paid to the lender to lower the interest rate. 1 point = 1% of the loan amount. Each point typically buys 0.25 percentage points off the rate. Whether they are worth it depends on how long you will hold the loan: longer holds = points pay back; short holds = points lose money. The break-even is usually 5-7 years.

What happens if I miss a payment?β–Ύ

Late fee (typically $25-50 for personal loans, 4-5% of payment for mortgages), and after 30 days, the lender reports the late payment to credit bureaus, dropping your credit score 50-100 points. After 90+ days late, the loan can go into default, triggering acceleration (entire balance due) and collections. Always communicate with the lender if you anticipate trouble β€” most have hardship programs that beat default.

Can I pay off my loan early?β–Ύ

Generally yes, but check for prepayment penalties. Federal law prohibits prepayment penalties on most mortgages (Dodd-Frank QM rule), but some auto and personal loans still have them β€” typically 1-2% of the remaining balance, in effect for the first 1-3 years. Read the prepayment terms before signing.

Sources & references

Cross-check every number in this calculator against the primary sources below.